Ben Warden |
Honda CBR954 |
Peter Feistl |
Suzuki GSXR750 |
Julie Warden |
Magna Wagon |
Dave Ward |
|
Ian Payne |
Honda CBR1000 |
Bronwyn Manifold |
Suzuki GSXR600 |
Paul Southwell |
Honda CBR1000 |
|
Ford XR8 ute |
Renzo Cunico |
Honda VFR750 |
Rob Langer |
BMW 1150 GS |
I took the lap top and each night I attempted to write down a few of the day’s prime activities. Of course, after a hard day’s riding (or walking), finalising accommodation, and ensuing we were all fed and watered, all the mind wanted to do was relax and enjoy. Hence, these notes are just that: notes; particularly as they have not been revisited for a month and the memory is fading fast. Since there were no volunteers to put pen to paper, this is what we are left with. Overall it was a fantastic trip with only a few minor incidents to spice up the day. Everyone got on well, and we had many, many laughs. The weather was generally fine apart from the first couple of days. We travelled in the vicinity of 2850 km.
Saturday 3rd
March: Station Pier - Devonport -
Ulverstone
We met at the carpark entrance to the Spirit of Tasmania at nominal time of 8 am. Rob turned up at 20 past (early compared to last time!) and we set off at 8.25am, fully onboard 10 minutes later with minimal queuing, the only pause when we were asked if we were carrying explosives, guns, bombs, etc.
Activities included lots of backgammon and Phase 10 (card game) played between Peter, Ben and Julie, bike magazine reading (thanks Ern for loan of current American and British mags – devoured by all and sundry) and general time filling on the trip over. Lining up patiently at the bistro and consuming a leisurely lunch whiled away another hour.
On arrival it was agreed to meet at the Noodle shop in Devonport for tea (identified as we made our way up the river on the Spirit, “the street behind the cinema complex”) before continuing on to Ulverstone and our first night’s accommodation. Subway was right next door and appealed to some. Dave and Bron headed for the pub at Ulverstone while we found the Bass and Flinders Motel, arriving just on dark. Once settled in, in the very spacious, old style motel rooms, Ben, Julie and Renzo did a 1 hour beach walk. Big, wide, stony beach. Then we wandered the back streets back to the motel. The accommodation took some sorting out because they had double booked one of our rooms but it worked out well with only 3 rooms. There was a restaurant/ bar with a big screen TV and we watched the end of the Hawthorn-Carlton NAB Cup game.
Sunday
4th : Ulverstone
– Leven Gorge – Tullah Resort
Julie
and Bronwyn drove the cars in convoy the 120 km directly to Tullah. Before
reaching the Resort they stopped at Wee George steam train in Tullah and
enjoyed a ride for $5. They had stopped for morning tea at Warratah
and visited the falls, picking up
They also visited the stamping mill exhibition and waterwheels, only opened on 5th Feb. Huge (2m x 1m) photos printed onto mini-corrugated iron. Working equipment had been removed from the tin mine site and relocated as a tourist attraction complete with press button operated rock crusher – very noisy.
The boys checked out the roads and the
spectacular and easily reached Leven Gorge en-route to Tullah. In the afternoon
we rode down to Queenstown via the 58 km of sensational
We decided to have a coffee in Strahan so 38 km of very tight twisty roads later saw us ensconced outside the local Strahan Bakery. The trip was exciting with a couple of buses to be overtaken. They were chasing the world renowned steam train from Queenstown to Strahan ($110 one way, many wooden bridges, cuttings, phenomenal views). Dave and Bron had been on it and reported it was worth the money. Of course, the bus drivers do this route two or three times a day and don’t hang about, as Ronny Johnston would say. The buses tend to throw sand on to the road on every left hand corner as the rear wheels cut the corner. Pretty tricky riding conditions – wet and sandy corners, steep down hill, quite a bit of oncoming traffic, passing difficult. Full concentration and clear head required.
We met Heather and Tony Raditsis celebrating their 20th wedding anniversary in Strahan. I took the obligatory group photo before we headed back to Tullah via Zeehan and Roseberry.
Tullah Resort is an ex-miners bulk accommodation venue, now owned by a multinational with a view of capturing a variety of tourist accommodation requirements, from bunk bed backpacker style to luxury apartments. We stayed in the backpacker rooms, two per room, except there were 9 of us so Pete, Ian and Paul bunked together, with many a laugh. Cost $60 per room per night. Some issues with towels costing extra - $2 for the 3 nights. Attached is a bar, lounge and breakfast area offering beautiful tranquil views across the lake to distant mountains, often mist covered in the mornings.
Lamb shanks were the most popular choice
for tea. The menu changed nightly and the food was of a reasonable standard,
generally dearer than
Monday
5th Tullah
It was still overcast and drizzly so we all drove (except Renzo and Rob who went riding) to Queenstown for Dougies (Lyell) Mine Tour. Unfortunately it was cancelled at the last minute due to a 400 tonne rock fall overnight. The incident made the front pages in the Tassy papers. No tours for two weeks until mining authorities give the all-clear. So we went to JJs café for morning tea (mugs of coffee, skinny milk shakes, thick milk shakes, hot chocolates) and sponge cake. This was turning into a gourmet food tour with eating too much, too frequently the normal state of affairs.
Ben drove the boys back to Tullah along the Plimsol road again (sighting lap). The initial plan was to go riding, but the rain was so heavy and showers so frequent we decided to wait a couple of hours. Paul went for a kip and later Ian did too, last night’s alcohol intake taking its toll. Ben and Pete got into the Back Gammon again and whiled away an hour or so. Around 1.30 pm we walked down to the supermarked/general store and bought lunch, sitting outside as per the day before. A large and filling ham and salad roll including egg paste for Ben and Paul was purchased for the bargain price of $4.50. Finally on to bikes around 2.30 pm for 40 km ride north up the highway to turn left to Waratah and Savage river and the beginning of the dirt 26 km to Corinna and Pieman’s Ferry at $10 per bike. The quartz clay is startling bright and after a couple of kilometres I stopped for a regroup and to rest my eyes.
After the usual level of good natured cajoling we set off in random order. A couple of kilometers later I met Paul and Peter who had just fished Renzo out of the gutter, his bike suffering sandpaper like abrasions, coating the bike in white sand which looked much better after a wash. Renzo had already gone, the bike sustaining no structural damage. Dave was blazing away at the front on the ZX10 with Rob on the GS not far behind.
We had met Renzo and Rob coming back from their loop out to Reese Dam, Zeehan and Roseberry just as were about to leave. They joined us after their 150 km of miserably wet riding. It was now mainly dry, though overcast and cool.
I passed Renzo after about 10 km, riding slowly, somewhat chastened by his minor get-off. 26 km of sandy dirt is a long way on a road bike – and I hadn’t told them about the extra 12 km of tight uphill dirt on the other side of the river. But in lots of places you could get along around 80 km/h and a couple of straights I saw up around 100 km/h hour. Dave was up at 140, marking the route with long fishtail slides.
Coffee at Corinna and
photos of the Pieman Ferry, everyone making it safely through. Then on to the ferry, Ben collecting the
money and squeezing off a few photos. It took only five minutes to cross the
river on the punt and it only fitted two cars, or in our case, one car and six
bikes. The Mercedes was driven very well by an elderly gent and wife. Luckily
he pulled over to let us pass, otherwise I don’t think we would have got past
him and negotiated the next bend. A fast blast back to Tullah finished off the
day.
All nine people had roast lamb for tea at the Chalet. It was Dave s 35th birthday and we all sung Happy Birthday during the evening meal.
Julie and Bron had had a lovely day
sightseeing in Strahan. Highlights included visiting the saw mill and gallery
in the main street,
Then off to Banjos Bakery for lunch consisting of a black pepper meat pie (almost vegetarian, almost all gravy). Julie had a pasty. It was hot and they were cold and hence the pastries satisfied the primary requirement of warming them up. They sat out the front of the bakery and talked with the Spanish bikies riding a Harley.
Then back to Tullah by 3.30pm for a snooze followed by a walk with Roy, the local Tullah wood turner who doubles as dishwasher in the mornings at the Chalet. He offered to show the girls a free spatula wood turning lesson next day.
Tuesday
6th Tullah
Weather on the improve, another big loop out west was planned. We stopped at the lookout halfway to Zeehan for a regroup. Parking on the right, lookout on the left, a strange set up. You feel like you have to stand on the road to get the best view. Lucky there are so few cars and visibility in each direction is good.
Bron was riding the Suzuki GSXR600 in the morning for the 180km loop out to Reese Dam and then the Zeehan Spray Tunnel named after the locomotive called the Spray. The site was an old tin mine with lots of relics from the hard times. The mine was serviced by the steam train from Zeehan via a 64 meter long tunnel, hand dug straight through a hill. The access road was via 1.6 km of dirt. After the yesterday’s 38 km of dirt road, riders were very cautious of my dirt road claims, particularly as the bikes were covered from head to foot in white baked-on mud. The return 2.4 km trip was up and over the hill, completing the loop back to the golf course and main road. There were quite a few pot holes full of yellow clay coloured water to negotiate.
Zeehan bakery for morning tea which became early lunch around 11.30am to 12.30pm. The salad rolls – huge with asparagus, pineapple, ham, lettuce, beetroot, cucumber, and butter! Morning tea rolled over into lunch – people just kept eating!
Back to Tullah after riding towards
Queenstown and picking up the
Wednesday
7th Tullah
to Maydena Giant’s Table
As per usual, breakfast in the open communal dining area with magnificent views across the lake. No steam rising off the water or canoes and kayaks paddling on the mirror surface this morning. Cereal all round followed by toast for the rest of the team while Julie and I had muesli and a banana each
Pack up and on the road after refuelling for those that didn’t refuel the night before – Ian, Paul, Dave, Rob. Dave’s bike wouldn’t start though it seemed to pass all the initial self tests. Eventually fired when Paul hit the starter button and wasn’t a problem thereafter.
It was generally agreed “Where else can you
sit on absurdly high speeds for long periods other than in
We didn’t get far up the
So, for the seventh and final time I set
off down the
We all passed Bronwyn driving the orange ute on the
Down steeply into Queenstown and then up to the first lookout where we regrouped. Pete decided, after seeking a third confirming opinion, to go back and get money out of the ATM at Queenstown. Julie went past – having stopped for a coffee and money at Queenstown. Later she noted later she was only held up for a few minutes by the Excavator Show.
The night before Ian was talking to a local geologist trained as
an explosives expert, now working for the Tasmanian Hydro-Electricity
Commission (locally referred to as “The Hydro”) and called me over. We were given
details of where to get a good view of an abandoned open cut mine – the
original Lyell mine – which is now all underground. About 1 km past the lookout right at the top
of the mountain there is a bitumen road off to the left for 500 meters with a
car park and magnificent views down the valley towards
After taking lots of photos - see front
cover of this month’s magazine. Pete pretended that we had to rescue him from
falling over the cliff. Bronwyn caught up with us before we headed off on the
remaining 80 km to
All of a sudden the number of cars (mainly Hyundai Getz rental vehicles, caravans – three in a row, logging trucks, the usual numerous Hydro vehicles) had increased exponentially. We were now on the main and only highway linking east and west Tassy. This just made for lots of passing manoeuvres as our average speed was much much higher than everyone elses. My arms were starting to feel the strain of hundreds, if not thousands of direction changes (say 20 corners per km, 80 km, 1600 corners!) Apparently the others were also feeling tired but that other contributing factors may have been having to drink all the remaining beer because they couldn’t take it with them, talking till way past midnight, or having ridden 525 hard km the day before. The idea of a regular afternoon kip has a lot of credence with these guys.
Just before
On to Ouse, Westerway and Maydenna, stopping for a visor clean about 30 km short. On arrival, our host Ann gave me a guided tour of the luxurious accommodation and then later a tour of the newly formed lakes. They are suffering from the drought as their spring has dried up as a result of no snow the previous summer. They are now on town water which has to be boiled as it comes out of the river.
The boys were dearly in need of a sleep and
declined the offer of a quick blast out to
Back to camp with Ben now leading Bron, making the return trip a bit easier for her.
Tea at the onsite Giant’s Table restaurant. All home-made food with 2 courses for $30 or three for $35. Various options were taken up. Magnificent meal. All over by about 10 pm and back to our rooms.
We all ended up in Ian’s house. (Three houses, Renzo and Rob, Dave and Bron in one, Ben and Julie in another, the fab three (Peter, Paul and …Ian) in the other. Serious (alcohol fuelled) consideration was given to the future direction of the Club, partly driven by the fact that we have only recruited two new members so far this year, and secondly, the average age as noted in one of the articles was 44.5 years old, and rising. Issues considered include a name change, new members, number of members, future of club, format of committee.
Thursday
8th
Ian, Paul and Pete did a 250 km ride
heading north to Bothwell, Westerway,
Ben and Julie drove to Mt Field National Park and after 16 km of dirt road started a 5 hour walk up Mt Field West, taking 4 hours and 50 minutes. As they arrived back at The Giant’s Table accommodation they latched on to Peter, Paul and Ian following them along the 4 km of dirt, starting at bottom of the street, to Junee Cave, one of a series of 195 caves carved by the river system through the mountains. It is possible to walk/swim/dive up stream – if you are game.
The boys stopped after 3.85 km, thinking it was all too hard, completely oblivious to Julie and Ben following closely behind in the car. We loaded everyone in the car for the last 150 metres (!), the walk entrance just around the next corner. The riders were only managing 25 km/h. It was a ten minute walk to the cave entrance where the river poured out of the mountain. Plenty of fish in the crystal clear water, and pademelons going about their business which seems to consist of eating, eating and eating, much like ourselves.
Then back to camp where I swapped my full camera memory card of photos for Julie’s memory card which then claimed to be locked and effectively unusable. Back into the car with Peter, Julie and Ian for a drive out to the Styx Giant Trees, preceded by 15 km of logging truck dirt road with serious potholes at the far end. There was a 10 minute board walk to the Big Tree followed by the Bigger Tree! The Greenies had vandalised most of the signage with their comments or removed the signs altogether.
Rob and Renzo day’s activities included
riding to
Dave and Bron went to
We all came together for tea at 7 pm at The Giants Table restaurant. Pete missed the girls from the Phoenix Bus who were sleeping in a couple of the other houses, but had taken off to eat elsewhere. It was a different menu each night and tonight’s menu included pumpkin and ginger soup, warm cajun chicken salad, shrimp cocktail, mushroom and leek pancake (entrees). Mains: lasagne, scotch fillet steak with various sauces, chicken with camembert cheese and raspberry and port sauce, cuscus, venison and wallaby gourmet sausages and a mixed vegetable platter with ratatouille, scalloped potatoes (perfectly executed and very popular with Dave). Desserts: apple and almond pie, chocolate cake, cheesecake with passionfruit, ice cream and cream. The ice cream was served with numerous sauce flavours.
The evening ended with planning for tomorrow’s ride and more discussions about Club directions.
Friday
9th Maydena – Latrobe – 612 km
We were on the road by 9 am with breakfast
and packing all done. Route: Maydena to
Bothwell, straight up the middle to Poatina.
On a right turn intersection followed by a fast sweeper I met a log truck
way over my side of the road. I moved over even more, and fleetingly considered
running into the dirt, adrenalin pumping hard.
Nothing to do but push on. It was now very cold, but when we dropped
down to Poatina, it was quite warm –
Back roads to Campbelltown.
My map had no distances and I had estimated 90 km, but in fact only 60 km. This
was always going to be a long ride and knocking 30 km off was a bonus. It was
still before midday so we pressed on to Bicheno for lunch at the bakery via
My steering head top nut had worked itself loose, and the front end was banging strangely. The nut is made of titanium and is very light – the 929 had a steel one. I have been tempted not to over tighten it for fear of stripping the fine thread. But I know it is stronger than steel so now it is really tight.
Day’s best road: Campbelltown to Coast (
Heading back to Latrobe via the inland alternative route to Rossarden, a spotted (Bambi) deer ran in front of Ben, leaving a cloud of dust as he took off, scrambling and gaining pace before passing/diving across and missing the front wheel by a whisker, then sliding out of control into the bushes on the other side of the road. Scared the daylights out of Ben who fully expected impact. Both survived unscathed.
A woman came out with her child to see the bikes as we rumbled through. Not much traffic out these ways. Renzo rode Dave’s ZX10 and Dave rode the VFR; later Paul and Dave swapped. Dave is looking to sell the ZX10 and buying either a F41000S or Ducati 1098. Dave’s ZX10 now has a sizeable stone chip on the tank.
We regrouped under the railway bridge at the end of another unadvertised 6 km of dirt. I was down to my last litre of fuel. The bike’s economy tends to suffer as the weather and road conditions improve, I notice.
Bron and Julie drove up the middle to Latrobe via Bothwell, eating scallop pies, and visiting the raspberry farm at Elizabeth Town. At Dave’s suggestion, we also attempted to visit the farm but it closed at 5 pm.
Accommodation – some confusion with the requirement of a trundle bed to make up the right number of beds. Later, as it turned out, there was the correct number of rooms. In the interim, Rob had exchanged his Sunday boat ticket for a sleeping birth that night, in an hour or so! Goodbye Rob.
After walking the length of the main street looking for somewhere different to eat, we settled on the Lucas pub, coincidentally where we were staying for the next two nights. Judging by the amount of clientele and cars parked outside, it was the pick of the two pubs. Everything else was either closed or about to. We all had tea together, pigged out as usual with three courses.
We had met a few cattle grazing on the long
paddock ie between the fence and road - as
I asked Renzo whether he had had a good day. He responded with “Every day is a good day – so long as I don’t crash. Awesome. Beautiful ride. Typical cruising speed. Discovered some beautiful and magnificent roads.”
Saturday
9th Latrobe – St Marys – Latrobe – 524 km
Bron rode with us today. We left at 9.15am
and rode to Shearwater Suzuki who have the franchise
for MV Augusta, Aprilia,
Next stop
Dave visited the Ducati shop haggling over price on the new 1098 Ducati – owner will ring back. Dave doesn’t want to take the ZX10 back home on the boat if he can help it.
We left at about 12.50pm and headed the 60
km to
101 km of fabulous twisties
to
Back in
Meanwhile, we found some more ripper roads.
Paul cleaned up a parrot on the
Heading back late in the early evening, sun low, we encountered a giant sprinkler irrigating the very, very shiny road, mid sharp right hand corner. Thankfully, it looked worse than it was.
It was approaching the end of the last day of the whole trip. Renzo’s bike was now suffering from a lack of maintenance, the chain almost dragging along the ground, left indicator not working – despite crashing on the rhs. Apparently a wire has broken. He had a nail in the tyre for the duration of the trip, first observed by Ben on Day 1. The rear wheel nut requires a 50 mm socket to adjust the chain, not readily available. According to Dave, the triple clamps are twisted. And the speedo reads at least 10 percent high due to alternative sprocket gearing. This affects the odometer which effects apparent fuel consumption. Renzo, forgetting all this, was always arguing the toss on distance covered, distance to the next fuel stop, and average speeds. Lucky he is turning 60 in 11 days.
Apparently there was a near miss as we rode nose to tail. Renzo missed the car in front turning left and then had to brake hard, scaring Paul with his massive front braking effort, the front wheel chirping, forks banging. Renzo: “It doesn’t matter now if I crash because it is the last day.”
Back at 7.40 pm.
No Ian. Then he rolled in a minute latter. Julie was out watching the platypus in the
Pete: “Challenge after challenge –
fantastic
Dave: “Looking forward to a freeway after this trip!”
Pete: “We are so crazy, it is beyond comprehension.”
More highlights from Pete:
Ian’s bike clocked over 20,000 km. Ben’s 70,000 km.
Julie drove to Point Sorrell, had a look
around – a one shop town supported by the booming local caravan park. Then she
went to
Julie had been issued with a car park sticker at the entrance ranger station but had somehow missed paying the $20 entry fee after talking so much to the ranger, so went back and paid. She tried to visit some other signposted beaches but the roads were too corrugated and she turned back. Lunch at the Axemans Hall of Fame at Latrobe. The café was set up for a wedding that night.
Sunday
11th Latrobe to
I drove the Magna down to check what time the service stations opened because with 52 km on reserve I wasn’t going to make the 10 km to Devonport to catch the ferry. Paul was in a similar situation. Alas, they didn’t open till 8 pm – if they were on time. So I decided to take Pete up on his offer of fuel. I had the water bottle and Paul had the siphon. I took a litre and Paul 600 ml. Ian’s tyre had gone completely flat so out with the foot pump. Ian stacked up the bags outside the motel on the street side ready to load into the car. We were all parked out the back in the off-street carpark –out of sight, out of mind.
Dave and Bron had to change rooms after deciding to stay an extra night and catch the ferry a day later. They ended up purchasing the Ducati 1098, leaving the ZX10 as a trade in. The plan had come together.
We picked up the
8.30 am saw us lined up at the front of the
queue, waiting for all the cars to load – after we had filtered our way to the
front of the queue. About 10 minutes later we were called on. Estimated docking time at
Found Julie who reported that the car was blowing a bit of smoke, hopefully nothing too serious. Home by 7.15 pm. Can’t wait till next time.
Ben
Warden